Design, Fabric Set Trends in Formal Wear
Elisabeth Duran
Most men seldom, if ever, wear a tuxedo. But when they do, it’s usually for a wedding, either their own or someone else’s.
To some, the thought of donning a tuxedo is daunting. Many men still see formal wear as stiff, impenetrably tight and vastly uncomfortable. They think they won’t be able to breathe, move or touch anything.
But today, new fabrics and cuts are more comfortable and allow full body movement. Your groom will be able to whirl you effortlessly around the dance floor. As for looks, there are flattering cuts that can be accessorized to complement you, your dress and your wedding theme.
“First, the groom should consider his own style and body build,” said Jack Springer, executive director of the International Formalwear Association. “That’s the key both to comfort and looking good.”
And if you’re not aware of couture fashion and designer cachet, you will be after your first visit to a local tuxedo rental outlet.
“The biggest trend today is the designer label,” Springer said. “You don’t rent a tux, you rent a Bill Blass, a Perry Ellis, a Givenchy. The only major designer label not for rent is Armani.”
There are three basic tuxedo styles, which are based on jacket cut. The leading rental is the notched lapel, single-breasted coat. Second in popularity is the shawl cut collar, with a rounded, notchless lapel. Third is the peaked jacket, which features a broad, v-shaped lapel pointing up and out just below the collar line. Similar in look to a business suit, this coat is gaining in popularity.
When you select your ensemble, you’ll likely choose your coat first. But your work’s not done. What distinguishes the tuxedo’s total look is the type of accessories you choose. Those accessories usually place a tuxedo into one of two categories – contemporary versus classic traditional.
The contemporary look usually features a three- or four-button coat, with a four-in-hand tie – similar to a business tie – rather than a bow tie. Classic traditional is usually defined as a basic tuxedo jacket and trousers accented with bow tie and cummerbund.
One of the freshest trends is the introduction of the full-backed vest. Different styles and patterns combined with a variety of colors give grooms a polished look, even when the coat has been removed.
Neckwear is evolving, too, said Gerald Andersen, executive director of the Neckwear Association of America. Fabrics and patterns are more understated.
“Four or five years ago, we saw more whimsical choices. We’ve also moved beyond the no-neckwear, Henley collar look,” Andersen said. “The trend as a whole is dressier. I think it’s fueled by the millennium, which created a real boom in formal wear.”
It’s not enough just to know your style preference. For instance, color – or its absence – counts. Gone are the days of matching the bridesmaid’s gown with a powder-blue tuxedo and blue-tipped, ruffled shirt.
“A black tux is still it for classic elegance,” said Donna Simonelli, marketing manager with Fabian Couture Group International, a men’s formal wear manufacturer. “With the millennium, we saw more silver and gold for vests or ties, which could be patterned or tone-on-tone. That’s a look that works for day or night.”
Along with an evolution in accessories, fabrics have changed to accommodate the demands of style and comfort, Simonelli said.
“Tuxedos have been made from the same fabrics for 50 or 75 years,” she said.
Although these familiar wools tailor well and hold up over time, they can also be stiff and unyielding. Manufacturers like Fabian have introduced fabric upgrades in their lines, using fine Italian fabrics of couture quality.
“It’s lighter, more elegant, and way more comfortable,” Simonelli said.
These newer fabrics not only drape better, they “breathe,” meaning that after long hours of wear, the groom and his groomsmen hold up better.
Of course, your goal in choosing wedding attire may not be formality. Grooms looking to accommodate a specific theme, or those who lean toward the more casual, also have options. A groom’s best bet is to follow the theme with coordinating accessories. For example, if you want a western look, choose a coat with a western-style yoke, and then add a bolo tie or western string tie, and a paisley vest instead of something geometric.
If you’re looking for something English or Victorian, the gray cutaway coat Hugh Grant wore in Four Weddings and a Funeral is timeless. It’s a morning wedding look that hasn’t changed significantly in 100 years.
Expert help is available even if you forego the tuxedo rental. Major department stores often have consultants who work with you to design a flattering, event-appropriate look. These services often are complimentary.
A fashion consultant can track down styles and sizes for you, often utilizing a network of stores and services. That’s another plus for harried bridal couples.
In keeping with the simple elegance now so popular for brides, most grooms opt for a formal, classic look. A growing number choose to buy rather than rent their tuxedos, which makes economic sense, Springer said.
“I wouldn’t buy the high-cut, five-button coat,” he said. “Rent the latest trends, don’t buy them. If you buy the standard tuxedo, you can wear it the rest of your life. Thirty years ago, the tuxedo looked pretty much the same.”
In these changing times, the traditional tuxedo – updated with accessories and modern fabrics – still has a place in the spotlight.